Line 35: | Line 35: | ||
</p> | </p> | ||
− | |||
− | |||
<img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/7/72/T--Aalto-Helsinki--makinghydrogel.jpeg"> | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/7/72/T--Aalto-Helsinki--makinghydrogel.jpeg"> | ||
Line 48: | Line 46: | ||
For exfoliating beads ideal material would be cellulose that dissolves in water as time passes but not too fast when product is stored and still under use. Dermcidin could also be bonded with cellulose based bead. In our product trial we used grinded peach stones. | For exfoliating beads ideal material would be cellulose that dissolves in water as time passes but not too fast when product is stored and still under use. Dermcidin could also be bonded with cellulose based bead. In our product trial we used grinded peach stones. | ||
</p> | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/2/26/T--Aalto-Helsinki--peachstones.jpeg"> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"><i> Peach stones</i></p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/1/14/T--Aalto-Helsinki--grindingmachine.jpeg"> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"><i> Picture on left: Filters for grinding machine</i></p> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"><i>Picture on right: Andreas Lindberg helping us with the grinding machine</i></p> | ||
<h4>Smooth as a peach - The product</h4> | <h4>Smooth as a peach - The product</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/9/9e/T--aalto-Helsinki--peachforwiki.jpeg"> | ||
<p id="paragraph"> | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
From the survey and meetings with professionals and people suffering with acne we got valuable information what kind of products people in general are willing to use and what kind of effect they are looking for form the product. | From the survey and meetings with professionals and people suffering with acne we got valuable information what kind of products people in general are willing to use and what kind of effect they are looking for form the product. | ||
We wanted to make our product application as simple and user friendly as possible. Instead of making purifying mask that user should wear 10 to 20 minutes we decided to make easy exfoliating gel. User only needs add it on skin, rub it gently on the skin and rinse away. | We wanted to make our product application as simple and user friendly as possible. Instead of making purifying mask that user should wear 10 to 20 minutes we decided to make easy exfoliating gel. User only needs add it on skin, rub it gently on the skin and rinse away. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | photo or something here? | ||
</p> | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | The efficiency of the product is based on both antimicrobial dermcidin component which could increase the natural dermcidin balance on the skin and exfoliating the dead skin by rubbing peach stone beads gently on the skin. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png"> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Why cellulose</h4> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Sustainable and environmentally friendly thinking was important part of application design process. We decided to use cellulose together with dermcidin because cellulose has a versatile forms and compositions and it is environmental friendly and rising economy in Finland. | ||
+ | Cellulose also began sound very interesting because of the possibility to add cellulose binding domain into our dermcidin peptide. | ||
+ | With cellulose binding domain antimicrobial dermcidin could be attached to different kinds of bandages, cotton pads and dressings and it could be used as an alternative for example for antimicrobial silver bandages used widely in wound care. | ||
+ | Also in skin care we were first thinking about using cellulose based paper mask or some kind of cotton pads where we could tie up dermcidin. But based on our survey results and discussions with cosmetologist and dermatologist we decided to concentrate more on purifying product with exfoliating properties. | ||
+ | Many beauty and skin care products contains environmentally harmful ingredients like micro plastic beads. We wanted to find substitutes for those and create as pure and natural antimicrobial product as possible. We decided to concentrate on cellulose based hydrogel (CMC) because it is safe, non-toxic and easy to experiment with. We got lot of help from <b>Andreas Lindberg</b> Doctoral candidate, Aalto University, School of Chemical Engineering. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Hydrogel pH</h4> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | We measured pH of CMC-hydrogel to see if it promotes the antimicrobial activity of dermcidin. Using pH test strips, we obtained the pH value of about 6, whereas pH of skin varies from 4.5-5.75 and the theoretical value for dermcidin is about 5. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Hydrogel viscosity</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Viscosity correlates resistance to flow and thickness of a substance. In case of our cosmetic formulation, it affects cleansing efficiency and user perception. Iit also impacts the way the product should be stored and thus, a packaging choice. Moreover, the high enough viscosity is required to prevent exfoliant from sedimentation at the bottom of the package. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Hydrogel samples | ||
+ | Carboxymethylcellulose (CMC)-based hydrogel is the base component of our cosmetic formulation. For testing purpose, we used two grades of CMC manufactured by CP Kelco (#picture, choose one below), Cekol 2000 (low modular weight polymer) and Cekol 50000 W (high modular weight polymer). We prepared several aqueous solutions of different CMC concentrations (5%, 7% solutions of Cekol 2000; 1%, 2% and 3% solutions of Cekol 50000 W). | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/e/e2/T--Aalto-Helsinki--CMChydrogel.jpeg"> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Based on that, we could check initially how the cosmetic formulation would “feel and look”, and got the first candidates for our products. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Viscosity measurement</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | We also decided to measure actual viscosity values of the hydrogel samples. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Measurement setting | ||
+ | We conducted measurements using Brookfield rotational viscometer with RV spindles. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/4/48/T--Aalto-Helsinki--viscometermachine.jpeg"> | ||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/2/20/T--Aalto-Helsinki--spindles.jpeg"> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | We kept temperature constant at 24-25°C and measured hydrogel viscosity at different spindle speeds (0.1 - 200 RPM). We decided to test the hydrogel samples at broad range of speeds due to its non-newtonian behaviour which means that its viscosity decreases under shear strain (shear-thinning effect). Moreover, assuming that the cosmetic will undergo different shear stress while scooping out from the package, keeping still on fingers, and applying on face by rubbing, we were interested how viscosity would change then. We neglected, however, temperature effect by that. | ||
+ | |||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Results</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | The results of our measurements confirmed the non-newtonian behaviour of the CMC-based hydrogel. When the shear stress increases, the viscosity decreases for all samples (#graph). The viscosity changes by one or two orders of magnitude with applied shear depends on CMC grade. However it is also completely and instantaneously reversible and the original viscosity is retained when the shear stops. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/fe/T--Aalto-Helsinki--viscometerresults.png"> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | According to [CP Kelco pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnNTFPUkNmdkdtNXc/view?usp=sharing] the pseudoplastic flow behavior is related to de-entanglement and orientation of the | ||
+ | CMC molecules in the direction of the flow. It seems to be seen in our results, where a longer chain molecule (higher molecular weight), as found in 3% Cekol 50000W CMC, is more "shear thinning" compared to the shorter chain molecule found in 5% Cekol 2000 CMC at higher spindle speeds. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The viscosity is proportional to the average chain length of the CMC molecule. The average chain length determines the molecular weight of the CMC grade. Thus, the viscosity at low speeds increases more rapidly for long-molecule CMC than short-molecule one with increasing concentration. The higher viscosities can be also obtained for long-molecule CMC despite lower concentration of the solution. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The excel file contains the table of viscosity values with related graphs, as well as more detailed description of the test-bed configuration for particular measurements. | ||
+ | https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnaGxCVmw5bkFGM28/view?usp=sharing | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Conclusion</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | We were looking for the hydrogel composition which would not only remain stable at rest in the package as well as by scooping it with fingers and then applying it on face, but also which would get liquid enough while rubbing and exfoliating dead cells. Based on the perception as well as on the result of the viscosity measurements, the aqueous solution of 3% CMC with long chain molecules appears to be the good choice. 7% CMC with short molecules is another option. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png"> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Hydrogel with exfoliant</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Cosmetics is one of the major sources for microplastics that end up in the environment. | ||
+ | We were critical of microbeads which many cosmetic companies use as exfoliating agents in their products. Microbeads are tiny plastic particles which end up in the oceans, as they cannot be filtered from our waste waters. After, through plankton, they start to accumulate in fish and fish-eating birds (https://www.theguardian.com/environment/shortcuts/2016/aug/24/ban-on-microbeads-tiny-objects-massive-problem-environment-cosmetics). In the beginning of 2017 microplastics were already detectable from table salt. | ||
+ | |||
+ | We used natural beads made of peach pits. We grinded them to achieve the beads of different particle sizes: coarse (heavy), medium (mix) and fine. Then, we added them to hydrogel samples to get different compositions. | ||
+ | The viscosity also impacts the sedimentation rate of exfoliating beads suspended in the hydrogel. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Exfoliant sedimentation and user perception tests</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | First, we compared all samples by sensing and realized that the fine exfoliant felt too delicate in all prepared hydrogels. On the other hand, the coarse beads were quite big and had sharp edges. The medium exfoliant seemed to nicely blend with hydrogels and provide good exfoliating effect. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/b/bd/T--Aalto-Helsinki--hyrdogeltable.png"> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | After testing based on perception, we left the samples for several days to see what would happen with the exfoliants. It turned out that the most viscous solutions, 7% Cekol 2000 and 3% Cekol 50000 W, remained stable and kept the beads uniformly distributed (#picture). However, we also noticed the degradation of cellulose chains in the hydrogels due to microorganisms growth, which resulted in severe viscosity reduction. | ||
+ | <p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Hydrogel degradation</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Although CMC has good stability towards degradation– enzymes and oxidants may still degrade it. Enzymes produced by microorganisms, may degrade the cellulose chain, and thus, cause serious, irreversible viscosity decreases. [CP Kelco pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnNTFPUkNmdkdtNXc/view?usp=sharing] | ||
+ | |||
+ | It happened to our samples while keeping them in room temperature and being exposed to light. We were warned about the possible spoilage in the talk with one expert, but despite that, we had neither carefully sterilized the peach pits nor added any preservative before. In result, after one week, two samples (1% and 2% Cekol 50000 W with the fine exfoliant) completely turned into cloudy liquids. Some other were affected by mold and the degradation process started too. After another week, the cellulose chains in most of other samples were either entirely or almost entirely degraded (#picture). | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--spoiledsmpls.jpeg"> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"><i>Pic: a,b) Degraded 3% Cekol 50000 W with medium exfoliant - cloudy liquid on top and severely c) Mold in 7% Cekol 2000 with heavy exfoliant</i></p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | An efficient way to stop enzymatic attacks is thus to prevent growth of microorganisms. This can be done by adding preservative. The CMC manufacturer suggest the following preservatives for food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses: | ||
+ | - Sodium benzoate | ||
+ | - Sorbates (Na and K salts) | ||
+ | - Sodium propionate | ||
+ | - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate | ||
+ | We also searched for other preservatives which are commonly used in cosmetics. The attachment https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnSGp5azhQTGlTN3M/view?usp=sharing presents the list of several other preservatives with brief descriptions. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Preservatives</h4> | ||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Due to problem with microorganism growth in the hydrogels, we decided to check the effect of adding a preservative on the solution stability. We picked the benzyl alcohol for a trial, because it is used in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11766131]. According to Cosmetic Ingredient Review, it is safe to use in cosmetic products at concentrations of up to 5%. However, in the European Union, benzyl alcohol is allowed at maximum concentration of 1% in ready for use preparation [http://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=29457]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Although benzyl alcohol can be considered as a natural ingredient as many plants, fruits, and teas have it as a component. On the other hand, the cheaper synthetic version is usually used in products, which is produced by mixing benzyl chloride with sodium hydroxide. Other ‘natural’ alternatives are also available and could be also considered in the future. | ||
+ | |||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Results</h4> | ||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png"> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Package</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | In package design we had several potential material candidates like biodegradable wood based plastic PLL, paper and wood. We decided to go with a wooden packages because we had an idea of wood based product packaged inside wooden package. With wooden package we also represented Finnish nature which was an inspiration in whole design process. Package is made out of curly birch wood, which has beautiful structure and outlook naturally. Product name is laser engraved on top of the package and ingredient information can be engraved on bottom of the package. In actual production process wooden package is most probably too expensive, but now we wanted to focus on a show piece, an idea of no beautiful package that can be used after the product has run out. With wooden package we will also get more attention. | ||
+ | In future the package could be PLL tube or coated paper tube which is easy to recycle or burn. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph">Ready product picture here </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png"> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Future work</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph"> | ||
+ | Benzyl alcohol is a colorless liquid and has a mild, pleasant aromatic scent, so it is used not only as a preservative but also as a fragrance ingredient. We assumed that our cosmetic product should be odorless or with subtle aroma. However, during testing benzyl alcohol as the preservative, the team member who was adding it to hydrogels got annoyed with its perfumed smell. After mixing the components, the smell was not so irritating anymore, but it is important to consider the influence of preservatives and other additives on the finished product aesthetics such as odor, color and viscosity. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Moreover, the interaction of benzyl alcohol or other preservatives with the dermcidin should be investigated in the future to provide the anti-acne features of our product. | ||
+ | </p> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <h4>Exfoliant sterilization</h4> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <p id="paragraph">text coming</p> | ||
+ | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
</div> | </div> | ||
</div> | </div> |
Revision as of 10:49, 22 October 2017
The Concept
We wanted to create a concept that gathers together the whole project we have been working with. The purpose of the concept is to have a way to communicate with people about possibilities of synthetic biology. Skin care and acne turned out to be really good way to do that, because it is part of almost everyone’s daily life in a way or another and with it it was easy to build a bridge between science and people. The concept itself is simple and easy to understand. Our aim was to create purifying skin care product for people suffering from acne. Our primary of importance was to create non-toxic and safe product that doesn’t cause any environmental impacts, is easy to produce and simple to use.
Porifi - Purify your pores from acne bacteria
Our application for antimicrobial dermcidin is exfoliating skin care product made out of cellulose hydrogel. Important part of taking care of acne is to remove and exfoliate dead skin gently and purify the skin. Cellulose hydrogel is natural and non-toxic substance that could be ideal for store dermcidin in. By changing content and amounts of water and CMC it was possible to have different viscosities and feelings of hydrogel. By testing different kind of compositions we ended up using one with..
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/7/72/T--Aalto-Helsinki--makinghydrogel.jpeg)
Picture on left: Michal and Maisa making hydrogel
Picture on right: Hydrogel sample ready for density measurement
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/b/b7/T--Aalto-Helsinki--hydrogelsample.png)
hydrogel sample
For exfoliating beads ideal material would be cellulose that dissolves in water as time passes but not too fast when product is stored and still under use. Dermcidin could also be bonded with cellulose based bead. In our product trial we used grinded peach stones.
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/2/26/T--Aalto-Helsinki--peachstones.jpeg)
Peach stones
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/1/14/T--Aalto-Helsinki--grindingmachine.jpeg)
Picture on left: Filters for grinding machine
Picture on right: Andreas Lindberg helping us with the grinding machine
Smooth as a peach - The product
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/9/9e/T--aalto-Helsinki--peachforwiki.jpeg)
From the survey and meetings with professionals and people suffering with acne we got valuable information what kind of products people in general are willing to use and what kind of effect they are looking for form the product. We wanted to make our product application as simple and user friendly as possible. Instead of making purifying mask that user should wear 10 to 20 minutes we decided to make easy exfoliating gel. User only needs add it on skin, rub it gently on the skin and rinse away.
photo or something here?
The efficiency of the product is based on both antimicrobial dermcidin component which could increase the natural dermcidin balance on the skin and exfoliating the dead skin by rubbing peach stone beads gently on the skin.
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png)
Why cellulose
Sustainable and environmentally friendly thinking was important part of application design process. We decided to use cellulose together with dermcidin because cellulose has a versatile forms and compositions and it is environmental friendly and rising economy in Finland. Cellulose also began sound very interesting because of the possibility to add cellulose binding domain into our dermcidin peptide. With cellulose binding domain antimicrobial dermcidin could be attached to different kinds of bandages, cotton pads and dressings and it could be used as an alternative for example for antimicrobial silver bandages used widely in wound care. Also in skin care we were first thinking about using cellulose based paper mask or some kind of cotton pads where we could tie up dermcidin. But based on our survey results and discussions with cosmetologist and dermatologist we decided to concentrate more on purifying product with exfoliating properties. Many beauty and skin care products contains environmentally harmful ingredients like micro plastic beads. We wanted to find substitutes for those and create as pure and natural antimicrobial product as possible. We decided to concentrate on cellulose based hydrogel (CMC) because it is safe, non-toxic and easy to experiment with. We got lot of help from Andreas Lindberg Doctoral candidate, Aalto University, School of Chemical Engineering.
Hydrogel pH
We measured pH of CMC-hydrogel to see if it promotes the antimicrobial activity of dermcidin. Using pH test strips, we obtained the pH value of about 6, whereas pH of skin varies from 4.5-5.75 and the theoretical value for dermcidin is about 5.
Hydrogel viscosity
Viscosity correlates resistance to flow and thickness of a substance. In case of our cosmetic formulation, it affects cleansing efficiency and user perception. Iit also impacts the way the product should be stored and thus, a packaging choice. Moreover, the high enough viscosity is required to prevent exfoliant from sedimentation at the bottom of the package. Hydrogel samples Carboxymethylcellulose (CMC)-based hydrogel is the base component of our cosmetic formulation. For testing purpose, we used two grades of CMC manufactured by CP Kelco (#picture, choose one below), Cekol 2000 (low modular weight polymer) and Cekol 50000 W (high modular weight polymer). We prepared several aqueous solutions of different CMC concentrations (5%, 7% solutions of Cekol 2000; 1%, 2% and 3% solutions of Cekol 50000 W).
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/e/e2/T--Aalto-Helsinki--CMChydrogel.jpeg)
Based on that, we could check initially how the cosmetic formulation would “feel and look”, and got the first candidates for our products.
Viscosity measurement
We also decided to measure actual viscosity values of the hydrogel samples. Measurement setting We conducted measurements using Brookfield rotational viscometer with RV spindles.
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/4/48/T--Aalto-Helsinki--viscometermachine.jpeg)
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/2/20/T--Aalto-Helsinki--spindles.jpeg)
We kept temperature constant at 24-25°C and measured hydrogel viscosity at different spindle speeds (0.1 - 200 RPM). We decided to test the hydrogel samples at broad range of speeds due to its non-newtonian behaviour which means that its viscosity decreases under shear strain (shear-thinning effect). Moreover, assuming that the cosmetic will undergo different shear stress while scooping out from the package, keeping still on fingers, and applying on face by rubbing, we were interested how viscosity would change then. We neglected, however, temperature effect by that.
Results
The results of our measurements confirmed the non-newtonian behaviour of the CMC-based hydrogel. When the shear stress increases, the viscosity decreases for all samples (#graph). The viscosity changes by one or two orders of magnitude with applied shear depends on CMC grade. However it is also completely and instantaneously reversible and the original viscosity is retained when the shear stops.
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/fe/T--Aalto-Helsinki--viscometerresults.png)
According to [CP Kelco pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnNTFPUkNmdkdtNXc/view?usp=sharing] the pseudoplastic flow behavior is related to de-entanglement and orientation of the CMC molecules in the direction of the flow. It seems to be seen in our results, where a longer chain molecule (higher molecular weight), as found in 3% Cekol 50000W CMC, is more "shear thinning" compared to the shorter chain molecule found in 5% Cekol 2000 CMC at higher spindle speeds. The viscosity is proportional to the average chain length of the CMC molecule. The average chain length determines the molecular weight of the CMC grade. Thus, the viscosity at low speeds increases more rapidly for long-molecule CMC than short-molecule one with increasing concentration. The higher viscosities can be also obtained for long-molecule CMC despite lower concentration of the solution. The excel file contains the table of viscosity values with related graphs, as well as more detailed description of the test-bed configuration for particular measurements. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnaGxCVmw5bkFGM28/view?usp=sharing
Conclusion
We were looking for the hydrogel composition which would not only remain stable at rest in the package as well as by scooping it with fingers and then applying it on face, but also which would get liquid enough while rubbing and exfoliating dead cells. Based on the perception as well as on the result of the viscosity measurements, the aqueous solution of 3% CMC with long chain molecules appears to be the good choice. 7% CMC with short molecules is another option.
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png)
Hydrogel with exfoliant
Cosmetics is one of the major sources for microplastics that end up in the environment. We were critical of microbeads which many cosmetic companies use as exfoliating agents in their products. Microbeads are tiny plastic particles which end up in the oceans, as they cannot be filtered from our waste waters. After, through plankton, they start to accumulate in fish and fish-eating birds (https://www.theguardian.com/environment/shortcuts/2016/aug/24/ban-on-microbeads-tiny-objects-massive-problem-environment-cosmetics). In the beginning of 2017 microplastics were already detectable from table salt. We used natural beads made of peach pits. We grinded them to achieve the beads of different particle sizes: coarse (heavy), medium (mix) and fine. Then, we added them to hydrogel samples to get different compositions. The viscosity also impacts the sedimentation rate of exfoliating beads suspended in the hydrogel.
Exfoliant sedimentation and user perception tests
First, we compared all samples by sensing and realized that the fine exfoliant felt too delicate in all prepared hydrogels. On the other hand, the coarse beads were quite big and had sharp edges. The medium exfoliant seemed to nicely blend with hydrogels and provide good exfoliating effect.
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/b/bd/T--Aalto-Helsinki--hyrdogeltable.png)
After testing based on perception, we left the samples for several days to see what would happen with the exfoliants. It turned out that the most viscous solutions, 7% Cekol 2000 and 3% Cekol 50000 W, remained stable and kept the beads uniformly distributed (#picture). However, we also noticed the degradation of cellulose chains in the hydrogels due to microorganisms growth, which resulted in severe viscosity reduction.
Hydrogel degradation
Although CMC has good stability towards degradation– enzymes and oxidants may still degrade it. Enzymes produced by microorganisms, may degrade the cellulose chain, and thus, cause serious, irreversible viscosity decreases. [CP Kelco pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnNTFPUkNmdkdtNXc/view?usp=sharing] It happened to our samples while keeping them in room temperature and being exposed to light. We were warned about the possible spoilage in the talk with one expert, but despite that, we had neither carefully sterilized the peach pits nor added any preservative before. In result, after one week, two samples (1% and 2% Cekol 50000 W with the fine exfoliant) completely turned into cloudy liquids. Some other were affected by mold and the degradation process started too. After another week, the cellulose chains in most of other samples were either entirely or almost entirely degraded (#picture).
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--spoiledsmpls.jpeg)
Pic: a,b) Degraded 3% Cekol 50000 W with medium exfoliant - cloudy liquid on top and severely c) Mold in 7% Cekol 2000 with heavy exfoliant
An efficient way to stop enzymatic attacks is thus to prevent growth of microorganisms. This can be done by adding preservative. The CMC manufacturer suggest the following preservatives for food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses: - Sodium benzoate - Sorbates (Na and K salts) - Sodium propionate - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate We also searched for other preservatives which are commonly used in cosmetics. The attachment https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0P9Kd_TdTZnSGp5azhQTGlTN3M/view?usp=sharing presents the list of several other preservatives with brief descriptions.
Preservatives
Due to problem with microorganism growth in the hydrogels, we decided to check the effect of adding a preservative on the solution stability. We picked the benzyl alcohol for a trial, because it is used in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11766131]. According to Cosmetic Ingredient Review, it is safe to use in cosmetic products at concentrations of up to 5%. However, in the European Union, benzyl alcohol is allowed at maximum concentration of 1% in ready for use preparation [http://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=29457]. Although benzyl alcohol can be considered as a natural ingredient as many plants, fruits, and teas have it as a component. On the other hand, the cheaper synthetic version is usually used in products, which is produced by mixing benzyl chloride with sodium hydroxide. Other ‘natural’ alternatives are also available and could be also considered in the future.
Results
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png)
Package
In package design we had several potential material candidates like biodegradable wood based plastic PLL, paper and wood. We decided to go with a wooden packages because we had an idea of wood based product packaged inside wooden package. With wooden package we also represented Finnish nature which was an inspiration in whole design process. Package is made out of curly birch wood, which has beautiful structure and outlook naturally. Product name is laser engraved on top of the package and ingredient information can be engraved on bottom of the package. In actual production process wooden package is most probably too expensive, but now we wanted to focus on a show piece, an idea of no beautiful package that can be used after the product has run out. With wooden package we will also get more attention. In future the package could be PLL tube or coated paper tube which is easy to recycle or burn.
Ready product picture here
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png)
Future work
Benzyl alcohol is a colorless liquid and has a mild, pleasant aromatic scent, so it is used not only as a preservative but also as a fragrance ingredient. We assumed that our cosmetic product should be odorless or with subtle aroma. However, during testing benzyl alcohol as the preservative, the team member who was adding it to hydrogels got annoyed with its perfumed smell. After mixing the components, the smell was not so irritating anymore, but it is important to consider the influence of preservatives and other additives on the finished product aesthetics such as odor, color and viscosity. Moreover, the interaction of benzyl alcohol or other preservatives with the dermcidin should be investigated in the future to provide the anti-acne features of our product.
Exfoliant sterilization
text coming
![](https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2017/f/f4/T--Aalto-Helsinki--horizontal.png)
Contrary to popular belief, Lorem Ipsum is not simply random text [2]. It has roots in a piece of classical Latin literature from 45 BC, making it over 2000 years old. Richard McClintock, a Latin professor at Hampden-Sydney College in Virginia, looked up one of the more obscure Latin words, consectetur, from a Lorem Ipsum passage, and going through the cites of the word in classical literature, discovered the undoubtable source. Lorem Ipsum comes from sections 1.10.32 and 1.10.33 of "de Finibus Bonorum et Malorum" (The Extremes of Good and Evil) by Cicero, written in 45 BC. This book is a treatise on the theory of ethics, very popular during the Renaissance. The first line of Lorem Ipsum, "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet..", comes from a line in section 1.10.32.
Contrary to popular belief, Lorem Ipsum is not simply random text. It has roots in a piece of classical Latin literature from 45 BC, making it over 2000 years old. Richard McClintock, a Latin professor at Hampden-Sydney College in Virginia, looked up one of the more obscure Latin words, consectetur, from a Lorem Ipsum passage, and going through the cites of the word in classical literature, discovered the undoubtable source. Lorem Ipsum comes from sections 1.10.32 and 1.10.33 of "de Finibus Bonorum et Malorum" (The Extremes of Good and Evil) by Cicero, written in 45 BC. This book is a treatise on the theory of ethics, very popular during the Renaissance. The first line of Lorem Ipsum, "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet..", comes from a line in section 1.10.32.
Contrary to popular belief, Lorem Ipsum is not simply random text. It has roots in a piece of classical Latin literature from 45 BC, making it over 2000 years old. Richard McClintock, a Latin professor at Hampden-Sydney College in Virginia, looked up one of the more obscure Latin words, consectetur, from a Lorem Ipsum passage, and going through the cites of the word in classical literature, discovered the undoubtable source. Lorem Ipsum comes from sections 1.10.32 and 1.10.33 of "de Finibus Bonorum et Malorum" (The Extremes of Good and Evil) by Cicero, written in 45 BC. This book is a treatise on the theory of ethics, very popular during the Renaissance. The first line of Lorem Ipsum, "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet..", comes from a line in section 1.10.32.
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References
[1] Writers, YEAR. Name of article / book. Publication. Accessible at: [url here].
[2] Writers, YEAR. Name of article / book. Publication. Accessible at: [url here].
[3] Writers, YEAR. Name of article / book. Publication. Accessible at: [url here].
[4] Writers, YEAR. Name of article / book. Publication. Accessible at: [url here].
[5] Writers, YEAR. Name of article / book. Publication. Accessible at: [url here].